Ali Safak, the owner of Pansion Safak, not only treated us as one of the family with a real Turkish hospitable welcome but also provided us with 4x4 transport to drive up into the mountains to look for Caspian Snowcock. Oh, and he sat up until 1.30am local time with Alan to watch Man U beat Chelsea in the Champions League final - what a host! Take a look at his website, www.ozsafak.net, to find out more about the accommodation and activities in this beautiful area.